Bordeaux and its link to Ireland

My husband and I visited Bordeaux back in end of August 2018. Although I lived in France for over a decade during the 90s, I must admit that I had never visited this port city. I was aware of its many links with Ireland which heightened my feelings towards the place; I wanted to find out more… So our trip was one of discovery for me. I wanted to immerse myself in the city’s maritime heritage.

Bordeaux is geographically located on the bend of the River Garonne; its proximity to the Atlantic seaboard influenced its historical and contemporary trade links. However, despite it having been one of the greatest ports in Europe, the city turned its back on the sea towards the end of the 20th century; however, this has changed in recent years. This makes me think of Ireland’s maritime past. Prior to the 19th century, Ireland was influenced by the increasing number of foreign fleets around its coastal waters and, thus, fostered the development of shipbuilding in a number of coastal towns. Two decades into the 20th century coastal communities around Ireland became marginalised.

Back to Bordeaux! Finding myself in this port city conjured up images of merchant ships steering their course up the River Garonne during Medieval times through to the Early Modern Period. I imagined labourers unloading various commodities, exchanges occurring between merchants from diverse places… Links between Ireland and Bordeaux date back to the end of the 17th century when Ireland was fraught with conflict. Irish families fled Ireland and sought exile in France; they would become known as “The Wild Geese”. Irish families played an important role in developing viticulture in Bordeaux. Some of the region’s most prestigious ‘chateaux’ still bear Irish names.

An interesting little place, for me at least, is the Musée du Vin et du Négoce – Museum of the Wine Trade – 41 rue Borie. The visit takes about one hour followed by wine tasting.  The actual building was built around 1720 for Francis Burke, an Irish wine merchant; this element gave the visit a different perspective.  

Another must is the Cité du Vin – City of Wine. If you appreciate contemporary architecture as well as wine then this is the place to be. It is fascinating; however, give yourself plenty of time to delve into the history of wine and this region that is synonymous with fine wine.

There are many landmarks dotted around Bordeaux with Irish connections. The Chapelle des Irlandais – Irish Chapel – is located at number 17, place Pey Berland and the Collège des Irlandais – Irish College – is housed at 3 bis, rue du Hâ. Street names such as, rue Mac Carthy, rue O’Reilly are woven into the fabric of this splendid port city that is Bordeaux. These place names are a constant reminder of the legacy left there by the Irish.

There is plenty to see and do in Bordeaux. In addition to some great wines, there is an abundance of quirky restaurants and cafés. So why not indulge in a visit to this port city next time you’re planning a holiday…

What’s in a Name?

Back to my surname, that brings me to Baltimore, metaphorically, of course. I’d like to mention a book that i’m reading at the moment; it’s by Des Ekin, author of Stolen Village, a book that brings to light that sack of Baltimore, an intriguing story that occurred in 1631.

Back to the task in hand, the book I’m reading at the moment is Ireland’s Pirate Trail, the very name puts a smile on my face as my mom always says that the O’Driscolls were pirates; and, so they were, she is right in saying that but as a youngster it really wasn’t my ideal image of my ancestors!

Exploring our past is a great way to understanding our present, and who we are, and as such why we are…

My grandfather was a fish merchant and traded with France. My dad and his brothers were fishermen as were many of my cousins. Collectively, the family have an innate relationship with the sea and coastal environment. It’s in the blood as we say, we have salt in our veins.

You recall the sense of place I discussed in another post, an attachment that people establish with specific places, well for me, as long as I’m on the coast is what’s the most vital to me. Of course I have a strong connection to West Cork but just being able to see and feel the sea no matter where I find myself…

During my research in both Brittany and West Cork, many of the interviews and conversations held with locals highlight the importance of being in a coastal environment rather than being somewhere specific.

Thanks for joining me!

Women in Coastal Communities

Strength of Character

During my research I became fascinated by the lives of earlier women living in coastal communities. Fortunately, there are authors, predominantly female, who have written extensively about women in coastal places in both historical and contemporary contexts. The literature, in terms of the past, reveals that these women remained steadfast to their way of life; managing house and children, theses hardworking women also performed tasks for their fisher-spouses mending nets, gutting fish and selling the catch.

Darlene Abreu-Ferreira (2012) tells us that women were known to have held key trading positions in 17th-century Portugal. They were active fish traders and agents who didn’t necessarily depend on the male population; they had a strong sense of independence.

Although many women from European coastal regions gained independence through fish work, the fish wives of Amsterdam stood out from their European counterparts as they enjoyed a certain wealth. Denise Van der Heuvel (2012) informs us that the fish wives assisted their husbands in selling the catch at various markets. They also held their own stalls independent of their spouses and succeeded in juggling motherhood and work.

In other countries, such as France, some women fished in small boats or accompanied their husbands; and in Ireland many went kelp fishing which necessitated a great deal of physical strength and stamina.

At a time when travel was regarded with suspicion and trepidation, people were reluctant to journey much further than their local hinterland. However, in 19th-century UK during the herring fishery, women in coastal communities left their homes to work gutting and filleting fish. These dirty and tedious chores most men were unwilling to do. That said, the jobs provided young girls and women with a sense of freedom and independence that was rarely experienced by their inland cousins.

Traversing the Atlantic Ocean to 18th-century Newfoundland women processed fish and replaced the traditional male ‘shore crews’. Willeen Keough (2012) recounts how they gutted, washed and salted fish; and not unlike their European counterparts, they too juggled physical labour of the fishery with childcare and household responsibilities. They were known to be full-time participants in the family business in which they held equal share. And to be fair, the wider fishing communities acknowledged the value of their work, regarding them as vital, skilled workers on the fishery.

Unfortunately, due to profound changes within society, the patriarchal characteristic of the ‘civilised’ population steered its course into coastal communities and, as a result, into the fishing industry. The discourses of the time were turned towards the male ‘breadwinner’. Nevertheless, the majority of fishing families remained resilient to these changes by establishing joint maritime households, the type that I observed during my fieldwork in both Ireland and Brittany (France).

There was a large quantity of women involved in maritime trade. These women should be remembered for their strength of character and for their input into the local economies in which they engaged regardless of marital status. These independent women developed their own life courses. They managed and organised their work both within and outside the home that very much resonates with the lives of contemporary women. Assertive for their era, these women should be regarded as role models to empower subsequent generations. They have left a great legacy that could inspire present-day women.